As the Snow Melts

On this first day of spring, I can look around and see that, while the snow around my house can only be found in grimy-looking piles, the mountains are still blanketed. My favorite trails are still buried under several feet of snow. Still, the big thaw is happening, even if it isn't always readily apparent.

The first green shoots and, even better, the first flowers are just weeks or maybe days away. For me, watching the wilderness change is like a gardener and his or her prize tomatoes, or even an animal lover and a young pet. So many people look for a meadow or an aspen stand, but there is also incredible beauty in a fresh leaf or an intricate flower.

With many dirt roads and worn trails, the springtime melting leads to a 'mud season', which is not much fun. Even so, it is an essential part of the yearly cycle of life. Melting snow and ice in the mountains fills streams and rivers, and allows plant life to flourish, which in turn provides food for wildlife.

In some ways, spring is a very dramatic time of the year. In a matter of weeks, the natural world transitions from night (winter) to a new dawn (spring).

This spring will mark a new beginning for From The High Country, too. My new book, San Juan Inspirations will be released this summer, as will a new-look 2014 calendar. To learn more about the book, click here.

Wildlife Conflict

It is an unfortunate fact of life that where people choose to live, there are often problems with wildlife. Perhaps the local deer take a liking to flower beds or cross the road just as people drive by, or maybe a bear tears open a bag of trash. When people and wildlife meet, it is up to us to adapt. After all, it's a small price to pay for living away from the cities and suburbs, and we can hardly negotiate with nature! We have to keep attractants away from the bears, and either sacrifice a few flowers or protect them with wire.

Last year, at least five bears were killed in the small town of Lake City, Colorado. Each case was different, but many would agree that fear and ignorance were common factors. With a year-round population of around 400, that would mean that roughly one bear died for every 80 residents. I wonder if the many wildlife lovers who visit would feel comfortable with those figures.

While there are strong feelings on both sides, it is not something that is discussed very often (although there are a few passionate people working to change this). Some people think nothing of exploiting pictures of distressed bears in order to attract business, but do nothing to prevent more unnecessary bear fatalities.

Chris Parmeter, a wildlife officer for Colorado Parks and Wildlife, wrote a painfully honest account of his dealings with so-called problem bears, and the harrowing, tragic final encounter he had with one bear. I encourage you all to read it, especially if you live in or visit bear country - click here.

Life in a Small Mountain Town

These days, most of us live in cities. Usually, the biggest problem is deciding which restaurant or mall to visit. Many people live, work and play in the same city, and would never have to leave if they didn't want to. Of course, there is a downside. Congestion, crime and pollution are all problems that many cities are faced with.

Imagine leaving it all behind. No more chain stores, malls, overpasses, toll roads or multiplexes. It isn't for everyone. My nearest large grocery store is 50 miles away. I don't even know where the nearest mall is. If you're looking for a quiet place to live and don't count shopping as a pastime, perhaps a small town is right for you.

That's not to say that there are no stores in my small town. There are many hard working people who do their best to provide services to residents and visitors, but when the summer visitors leave there is a limit to what a small town can support, and many businesses close during Colorado's harsh winters. If you decide to live year-round in a small town, it's important to plan ahead. For example, if you're going to have a dinner party in a week or so, be sure to get those unusual spices and drinks when you're in the city. Incidentally, learning to cook well is a good idea when most restaurants are closed for part of the year.

Why live in a small town if it's so much work? For me, it was an easy choice because I'm surrounded by mountains and forests! An unexpected bonus was the sense of community that is readily apparent. I've made many great friends in this town - far more than I did when I lived in a city. Perhaps it takes a certain type of person to live here.

I'd be lying if I didn't mention the dark side of small towns (at least from my experience). While the local bar might be reminiscent of Cheers, there are times when First Blood has been more appropriate in some aspects of town life. There are a small number of truly unpleasant, churlish people who desperately want to feel important. These people are present in every town, but are more noticeable in a population of 400 people. Don't join the right group, upset the wrong person, or raise a point that they didn't think of and you and your business risk being ostracized by their clique.

It's important to ignore such petty disputes, but as a result it is not possible for town residents to work together and reach their collective potential. Still, no town is perfect. After all, I came here for what lies beyond the town limits....

Still interested in small town life? Here's a list of 25 great Colorado towns to visit:
25 small Colorado towns to visit under $100

Ice Festivals

Sometimes, you wait for weeks for a winter event and then two come along at once!

At this time of year in the San Juan mountains, one thing you can rely on is ice. Temperatures reach as low as -25°F, and the ice of Lake San Cristobal slowly thickens over the winter months. Meanwhile, an ice wall is carefully farmed by Lake City Ice Climbs next to Henson Creek (water is sprayed over a rock face and allowed to freeze).

In early February each year, The Lake City Balloon Festival (also known as the Snowmobile and Hot Air Balloon Festival), is held on Lake San Cristobal, which provides a perfectly flat site for launching hot air balloons. The balloon colors brighten up the winter mountain landscape.

Depending on the weather conditions, hot air balloon rides are sometimes available, but you don't have to ride to enjoy the views!

You can see a slideshow of From The High Country images from the 2012 Balloon Festival here:
2012 Lake City Hot Air Balloon Festival 

For a slightly more active winter pastime, there's the Lake City Ice Climbing Festival. While some climb for fun, others compete for the best times.

 

Reaching the finish can be exciting!

 

The event is well-attended by competitors and spectators alike!

 
You can see a slideshow of From The High Country images from the 2012 Ice Climbing here:

2012 Lake City Ice Climbing Festival

If you're going to be at either event this year, download my free Lake City Map!

When the events are over, you'll find photos in my 2013 event galleries: Balloons and Climbing

A Helping Hand

The outside thermometer read -24°F as the sun rose in Lake City. A Colorado Parks and Wildlife truck pulled into the driveway as one last gear check was performed. We greeted Lucas Martin (Lake City's local CPW officer) and drove to our rendezvous point, where we met with staff and volunteers with Colorado Parks and Wildlife and the US Forest Service. We had all gathered to work with the precious cargo in one of the truck beds; two 90lb bear cubs.

In the summer of 2012, a sow was shot and killed when it entered an open window at a house near Powderhorn. Two young cubs were later discovered with the sow, and they were both transported by CPW to Frisco Creek Wildlife Rehabilitation Center near Del Norte.  Lucas considered both cubs to be good candidates for rehabilitation, and were cared for by staff and volunteers for the rest of 2012. Weighing only 20lbs each upon their arrival, the cubs were fed a natural diet (while minimizing human contact) until they were considered ready for release.

After introductions between the group of ten, we drove to a staging area where it was necessary to switch to snowmobiles. While the bears were comfortable in a straw-lined box (which would form the heart of the artificial den), the team worked to load hay bales and associated equipment on sleds before setting off into the wilderness in convoy.

Hay bales and bears!

Sunlight penetrated the tree canopy on the clear, cold January morning. We could travel no further on snowmobiles due to the terrain, and prepared our equipment again, as we would be traveling on foot from this point.

Hauling hay through dense forest.

We verified the location of the previously-scouted den site, and then quickly organized into teams to carry and drag hay bales through knee-deep snow to an isolated yet sheltered spot. Finally, the two cubs (still comfortable in their temporary home) were hauled on a steel sled through the snow and brush by a team of six.

Moving bears through the wilderness by hand is a team effort.

An artificial den must provide insulation and protection for the inhabitants. Their container home is sited in a location that a wild bear might choose, and is then surrounded by hay bales for insulation and extra nesting material. The hay is, in turn, covered with snow and nearby fallen branches. This provides yet more insulation, camouflage and protection. The bears are able to leave their new home via a  hay-covered entrance.

Using natural materials to finish the den structure.

 The finished den receives a final covering of snow.

After a last look at our achievement (the bears will not be visited again), we re-traced our steps to our waiting snowmobiles where we rode off into the wilderness. We left behind two warm, well-fed bear cubs who have every chance of living a normal life in the San Juans.

Left to right:  Christa Beiriger, Craig Palmer, Kevin Suellentrop, Eric Flickinger, Michael Sirochman, Patrice Palmer, Danny Zadra, Lucas Martin, Mike Fuller, Nick Gallowich, and Brooke Vasquez.
Not pictured, but vital to the operation is Chris Parmeter who took the group photo.

We'd like to thank Lucas Martin for inviting us to help with the relocation, and the whole team for their hard work and dedication. All too often, bears become habituated to humans and cannot be saved. Lake City Friends of the Bears is very grateful to have played a small part in this rare success story.

Another Door Opens

2012 has been an important year for me. This was the first year that I've spent in the mountains that that I've chosen to live in, and the first that I've been able to concentrate on building a body of work that I can be proud of.

I feel privileged to have been able to study the wilderness through the seasons. With every experience, I've learned a little more about the rich world that lies in the forests and mountains.  Each season brings new sights and smells to familiar trails, and sometimes the changes are so dramatic that the views are barely recognizable. The change from autumn to winter is particularly abrupt.

"Why do you flee so soon, sir, to the theaters, lecture-rooms, and museums of the city? If you will stay here awhile I will promise you strange sights. You shall walk on water; all these brooks and rivers and ponds shall be your highway. You shall see the whole earth covered a foot or more deep with purest white crystals . . . and all the trees and stubble glittering in icy armor."

The end of a year is traditionally a time for new beginnings, and possibly reflection on the time that has passed. I hope to be able to share From The High Country images with many more people in 2013, and I'm grateful to clients and supporters who have followed me through 2012.

If you'd like to help by providing some feedback, you can do so via my new questionnaire.

I'm excited to see what 2013 will bring, and I hope you'll join me. Have a Happy New Year!

On Self Reliance

“Every path but your own is the path of fate. Keep on your own track, then.”  Thoreau

“Nothing can bring you peace but yourself.”  Emerson

'Self reliance' is a term that means different things to different people. To some it might mean chopping firewood, while to others it might mean financial independence. In rural areas especially, self-reliance has come to mean the ability to grow and store your own food, or perhaps advanced wilderness skills.

All of the aforementioned really are forms of self-reliance. The learning of new skills result in an increased level of independence. During these stressful modern times, this skill set provides security. However, the most important form of self-reliance is not a physical skill.

Critical thinking and the ability to hold on to your unique thoughts in the face of opposition are skills that are essential to to the self-reliant mind, which is in turn essential to a truly self-reliant person. Think of Henry Thoreau and John Muir. Both lived alone in the wilderness according to their own philosophies, and both had many other options. They often serve as inspiration in my own life.

Mental self-reliance  is an incredibly broad subject, so I won't attempt to cover it all here. Simply taking responsibility for your actions and your well-being is an important start.

I highly recommend the works of Muir, Thoreau and Emerson if you'd like to learn more, especially during this time of new beginnings.

“Between every two pines is a doorway to a new world.”  John Muir


To view From The High Country images, click here.